SEAT Automobiles Forum banner

Changing Toledo brake pads...How?

7K views 15 replies 7 participants last post by  transportr 
#1 ·
Hi

As there's no Haynes manual for Seat Toledo (TDI SE) is there one for VW which
would be similar. In particular I'm looking for details of replacing the brake discs / pads.

My Toledo is X reg (2000). When I was in Halfords today I checked out
a manual for Passat of the same year and visually the brakes look the same.
Any idea ?

Any recommendations for brake disks/pads ?

Also, what tools am I likely to need ?

I've replaced brakes before but not on my Toledo.

Thanks
Trevor
 
#6 ·
Fronts are fairly easy. In short there are acouple of bolts holding the caliper on, Lossen these and spread the pads so you have room to get the new ones on and over the disk. The rears are a bit more of a fiddle. You will need a brake wind back tool. Halfords do one that costs about £20. However, I'm not sure if it fits. I got a full on kit off Ebay for £30. More or less the same as thr fronts to take off. Once off and the pads are out, you need the wind back tool to puch the piston back. Then all should be straight forward after that. Hope this helps. Good luck
 
#7 ·
Thanks TheV5.

I am thinking of replacing all of them (front and back). I already read about
the wind back tool so if it seems do-able I'll buy that. Just didn't want to get
all the bits if it was going to be too difficult.

I think the calipers are held on with bolts which you need some sort of allen
key to undo ?

Would you just buy OEM parts or go for something else (e.g. off demon
tweeks website) ? I've had issues with front disks becoming warped and I'm
not sure if that's just a problem with OEM disks ?

Thanks for any advice.

Regards
Trevor
 
#8 ·
I got my pads from a company called AVS - http://www.vwspares.co.uk - I think they are about £50-60 a set. As for disks, I have found that most get warped very quickly. The reason for this is that most OEM are from China with Chinesse Steel which is not to the same quality of European Steel. I have got a set of Rossini Discs on mine. Cost about £260 for the set (Front and Rear). A bit of expense, but Oh My God do they have stopping power or what?!! They claim that they will stop an average car in almost half the distance over normal discs, and I can believe it after having them on my car for a while. If you type Rossini into Google there is a site where you can buy them from. I think the company selling them is Car Parts Direct.

As for tools. I think it is just Allan bolts for both front and rear. I did it while ago and without looking I couldn't say for certain. Aside from the windback tool, all other tools should be straight forward i.e. Allan Keys, Spanners etc...
 
#9 ·
Thanks again.

I'll check out those disks you suggest. I'm on my third set now, the originals
lasted over 60K miles, the replacements were warped after around 35K and
these new ones seem to be showing symptoms of warping after only 12K
(though I need to clean them incase it's just a build- up of brake dust).

Best regards
Trevor
 
#13 ·
Well, I have done the brakes. Front and rear disks and pads replaced, went
for Rossini disks (from carparts-direct), and just got some 'brakeworld' pads
which carparts recommended. I bought a 7mm hexagonal wrench for removing
the front pads.

Replacing them wasn't that difficult. I would say the most fiddly bit was with
the rear ones. I had bought a wind-back tool (from justoffbase.com), even with that
it was tricky to wind so used a bit of 15mm copper pipe to extend
the handle (to give me more leverage). It's surprising how much they will wind
back.

Anyway, all done now. Thanks to you all (and TheV5 for recommending Rossini's).
I'm making a point of not braking hard until they're bedded in
a bit. I never brake hard unless I have to, anyway, but.... Is 500 miles
enough to bed in the new pads ?

Thanks again
Trevor
 
#15 ·
Sorry to drag up a thread from a few months ago...
The reason for this is that most OEM are from China with Chinesse Steel which is not to the same quality of European Steel.
Who told you that? The person selling you the Rossini?

Who the hell are Rossini anyway? They are just a company that appeared from nowhere a few years ago with an Italian sounding name, but are probably made in the far east.

Its like Guttmann, its just a brand made up by ECP, to make you think its made in Germany.

OEM means exactly that, Original Equipment Manufacturer, and if you buy discs from a known OEM, such as ATE, Lucas or Zimmermann then they are going to be made in Germany, or if not somwhere else in Europe.

Alot of the time the warped disc feeling, can actually be due to run out from poorly installed discs, where the face of the hub has not been properly cleaned, and due to the large diameter of the discs causes a large run out at the edge of the disc, and causes the disc to wear thinner in some parts than others, giving you that same judder under braking. Best thing it to check for run out using a dial gauge once the discs have been fitted, and would suggest it on anything with discs larger than 288mm.
 
#16 ·
thanks for all info. Have one question: I just changed the discs and the warped disc feeling is almost gone but I can feel a little bit of warping still, is that normal (meaning that it is going to be ok after some k) or should I look into it?
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top